Replace tailscale

I was a big fan of Tailscale for a long time. Sadly, the enshittification process has accelerated over at Tailscale, Inc. My spidey sense started tingling around [May '22](https://tailscale.com/blog/series-b). The cracks started to show when I observed how Tailscale, Inc was adopting an EEE approach to headscale. My worst fears were confirmed when [their CEO went full mask-off recently](https://tailscale.com/blog/new-internet). At this point, rolling a boring-ass jank OpenVPN would probably be a more pleasant and stable experience. I'll explore the modern landscape and kick the tires on one or two of the alternatives.